
Record when the fault shows
We note the engine temperature, the warm-up time and the outside temperature when the symptom appears. We also log how much coolant each top-up takes.

Locate the leak before removal
The leak path is pinned down before the head comes off: into a cylinder, into the coolant or into an oilway. A gasket is not always the source of the problem, so the tests also look for the fault that damaged it.

Remove the head in the maker's order
We undo the head to the car maker's instructions, which prevents distortion of the head and block. On the old gasket, rust and white lime-like deposits mark a coolant leak. A coating that peels off a multi-layer steel gasket under a fingernail marks overheating as the most probable cause.

Clean and measure the faces
We clean the head and block faces thoroughly, then check them against the maker's flatness figure. As a general limit, 0.1 mm of distortion over the length of an average head is the most allowed. A head beyond its limit is replaced before a gasket goes on.

Tighten the head to the maker's figures
We tighten the head bolts to the car maker's torque, angle and sequence. Wrong torque on head bolts can distort the crankcase.

Refill, bleed and road-test
Air left in the system after head work cuts coolant circulation and overheats the engine. We use a vacuum filler, which draws the air out, checks the system for leaks and refills it. A road test under the conditions recorded at the start closes the job.
Book a head gasket check by call or WhatsApp message, and say when the temperature gauge climbs.