
Coolant on the pump or under the car
A failed pump loses coolant past its seal. Tiny traces at the pump's relief bore come from its construction and are not a clear sign of failure. Heavy leakage there comes from corrosion in the cooling system, and we replace the pump.

A falling level in the expansion tank
The coolant level reads against the Min and Max marks on the clear plastic of the expansion tank, with the cap closed. A level that keeps dropping means coolant is escaping, and a serious loss indicates a leak. We trace the escaping coolant to its source, then replace the pump or the leaking part.

A climbing temperature gauge
Engine overheating is one way a pump failure shows itself. A pump whose impeller has come loose on the shaft stops circulating coolant. We fit a new pump when the impeller has lost its grip.

Noise from the pump
Noise from a pump comes with bearing damage. The same fault leaves the belt pulley flanks damaged and lets coolant leak. We replace a pump whose bearing is worn.

A broken or missing drive belt
A mechanical pump turns with its drive belt, so a broken belt stops the coolant flow. For an overheating Tucson NX4, Hyundai tells drivers to check whether the water pump drive belt is missing. We fit a new belt, and a new pump when its bearing or pulley is damaged.

Overheating with an electric pump
An electric pump stops on a short circuit or an open circuit, a blown fuse, a broken cable or a corroded plug. Its link to the car's electronics means the pump can be diagnosed. We test the power supply, fuse, plugs, ground point and harness, then repair the circuit or replace the pump.